2019 Grange, Penfolds, South Australia

With high-tone oak and a more than generous dollop of eucalyptus, this is a long, ripe wine that feels slightly swamped by oak right now. Savoury, peppercorn perfumed, and more red-fruit-soaked than any recent vintage of Grange I can remember, there are gum tree bark and exotic spice themes throughout, which give it the impression of wanting from a black fruit complexity point of view. Of course, this is an impressive wine. It always is. But, for me, there is a lot more fun to be had in other corners of this year’s Collection! Drink 2030 - 2055. 14.5% alc

Dark, dank and immaculate. The oak handling and tannic precision boast ample class. Beneath lurks a latent, molten beauty that will unravel eventually. I like this Grange. I feel that the decadent style, molten and fleshy, is well suited to the drought vintage and its thick grape skin tannic scour. Mercifully, the tannins are pliant and despite it all, plenty juicy. Firework aromas of raspberry liqueur, camphor and gunpowder, with a smear of black olive, licorella and hung meat wafting across the long finish. Best from 2030. 14.5% alc

Very dark purple. Heady and concentrated but too young to be very expressive. Massive! So concentrated it’s almost bursting at the seams of its attempt at a corset. There’s a certain framework that’s desperately trying to contain that exuberant fruit. It’s a marvel that they manage to make the selection but this is pretty impressive and exciting. Drink 2028 – 2050. 14.5% alc

The 2019 Grange is 97% Shiraz and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. It's the pinnacle of the Penfolds release (although if you ask me, the Chardonnays are my favorite part) and a wine that takes some understanding prior to scoring. The key to Grange is the old wines; it is a style of wine heavily fortified with oak (100% new, AP Johns American oak), tannin, fruit (multi-regional) and everything else. In the mouth it can be an almost impossible constellation of flavor and texture to wrap the mind around. But in time, yes, in time, this wine shows its capacity for grace and majesty. Ten years is too young to open a bottle. 20 years is about right. 30 and beyond, not a problem. It is a cellaring proposition of the highest order, but in youth it can feel impenetrable. So, this wine in front of me now has toasted coconut, dusted licorice, roasted meat, violets, burnt toffee, pastrami, coffee grounds, crushed ants/formic, roasted pecans ... all of these dark and broody (and chunky) things. 2019 was a hot year and one marred by low yields due to some inclement weather during flowering. This has meant that, as a whole, the wines have felt big, dark and compressed. This is no exception. It's a product of the year and the state from whence it has come and in the mold and style of Grange, typical. It will be even better. For now, ne touche pas. Drink 2033 - 2059. 14.5% alc